In this piece I’m going to carefully break down one of the rigs I’ve been using lately, discussing each part in detail. The rig in question is far from simple, in fact, it has all sorts of jingly-jangly bits attached to it. The rig has been named the spinner rig by some, and all will become clear as I go into more detail. In essence, this rig is a more carp-friendly version of the 360 rig.
The Finished Article
This is what you’re aiming to achieve when constructing this rig, and as you’ll see from the components there is unrivalled free movement in most parts of the rig. Combining the swivels together allows the boom, hook section and hook bait to move in a full 360 degrees. This makes the rig very effective and enables it to twist and turn effectively, giving you a far better hooking potential.
Always Check The Rig
I cannot stress enough just how important it is to check your rigs in the margins before use. Doing this will not only enable you to see how the rig will sit or perform when out in the lake, but you can tailor the rig to work exactly as you want it to.
I like to play with the buoyancy of my rigs, tinkering with the amount of putty I’m using until the rig sinks at the desired speed; this is a real edge and is often neglected.
Change The Hook In A Flash
One of the benefits that the rig has been most famed for is the ability to change the hook quickly without having to tie a whole new rig, making this ideal for speed fishing and big carp fishing all the same.
The setup is not only useful when it comes to replacing your hook, but it also gives the hook plenty of movement, and just like the 360 rig the hook has full-rotation capabilities. Having such a large degree of movement in the hook section will definitely lead to more hooked fish and is no doubt a large part of why the rig seems so effective.
Use A Super-Stiff Hooklength
Ensuring that I’m using rigs that rarely tangle is of paramount importance to me, and one of the great things about this rig is that it never seems to tangle.
There’s nothing worse than worrying about whether or not the rig is tangled, particularly during the night when you’re unable to watch the rig during the flight of a recast. I want to know that as long as I get the right drop, my rig will be sitting pretty out there. I like the 25lb Mouthtrap for my booms; it’s extremely stiff and once straightened, it remains straight.
Straightening The Hook Link
No matter what the rig is, I will always make sure it is straightened before it’s cast out. This makes the rig neater, less likely to tangle and also helps with concealing the hook link as it will lay flat rather than poking up off the bottom. The great thing about Mouthtrap is that there’s no need for steaming; simply apply pressure using a couple of Pulla Tools, for example, and you’ll be well away.
That All-Important Hook
Without a doubt, my favourite hook pattern for this rig is the size 4 Kurv Shank. This is the hook I was told to use when first trying the rig and although I’ve played around with a few others, the size 4 Kurv seems to be best suited to the job.
The Hook Ring Swivel
The micro swivel makes attaching or changing your bait extremely easy – an obvious bonus, but it’s not just that it’s used for. With the swivel being used instead of the ring, the bait has more movement and also gets a little separation between the bait and hook, while sitting nicely against the hook bead.
Positioning The Hook Bead
The position of the bead is very important when aiming to have the hook sitting in the perfect position – I’d describe it as cocked and ready. I like to have the bead sat on the bend, which will see the hook stood upright, with the point sat ready to hook the fish.
When setting the bead in a different place you will affect how the rig sits and in my opinion, this will hinder the rig’s performance.
Anchor The Hook Section
Some pop-up rigs are best fished so that the bait is balanced and sinks very slowly, but I feel this rig works better with the hook section overweighted slightly. As the boom section is so stiff, I have found that when the bait is balanced too lightly the hook link doesn’t always lay perfectly flat. When you add a little extra weight this problem is eliminated.
Spares At The Ready
Depending on the venue I am fishing and how many bites I expect to receive, I’ll have a load of spare hooks at the ready. The difference is that rather than just having the hooks ready to go, I like to have them baited, with both the Hook Beads and the Kickers attached. This saves me a lot of time once the action kicks in and it’s certainly helped.
It Suits A Boilie Approach
Whenever I’m using boilies as my hook baits, I try to make sure I’m feeding boilies too. With this rig being a pop-up, I find it better suited to boilies and large items of food, regardless of whether it’s fished as a single or over bait. Using pop-ups over particles and small items can unfortunately lead to foul-hooked carp and, although it’s a rarity, it is something I try my best to avoid.
Which Hook Bait?
I get a lot of questions when it comes to my hook baits, and for this rig I like to use baits between 10 and 15mm. I use a variety of different types but the general rule is get some pop-ups off Mainline, give them a good dose of Goo and then give them a week to cure before use. Today I’ve been using a mixture of white and yellow baits, which are a firm favourite of mine in murky water.
I’ve never been able to go into so much detail when it comes to the mechanics of a rig before, and I use this rig for one simple reason, it works wonderfully! It’s still early days but I like to think I know a good rig when I see one, and as soon as I was first shown this one, I liked it.
Like what you see?
Or buy a single issue